Pre-MOT Checklist

Headlights work on dipped and main beam

Both sides, and the blue main-beam light shows on the dash. Lenses should be clean and not cracked or misted.

Sidelights and rear lights work

Front and rear, both sides. Check the number plate lamp at the same time.

Brake lights work

Ask a helper to watch, or reverse up to a garage door or window at night and look in the mirror. Include the high-level brake light.

Indicators and hazard lights work

All corners and any side repeaters, flashing at a steady rate. A fast flash usually means a bulb has gone.

Rear fog light works

The dashboard tell-tale should come on with it.

No warning lights stay on

Airbag, seatbelt, ABS, ESC, brake fluid, electronic parking brake, power steering and, on cars first used from 1 January 2012, tyre pressure warning lights should go out after start-up.

Battery and visible wiring are secure

The battery should be clamped down, with no loose, damaged or bare wires you can see.

Tread is at least 1.6mm

Across the central three-quarters of the tread, all the way round. The tread-wear bars in the grooves show when you are close.

No cuts, bulges or exposed cord

Check the sidewalls inside and out. A bulge means internal damage and is dangerous.

Tyres on each axle match

Same size and type (for example not one run-flat and one standard) on the same axle, and the right size for the car.

Tyre pressures are correct

Check cold, against the figures in the handbook, fuel-filler flap or door pillar.

Wheels are secure and undamaged

No missing wheel nuts or bolts, and no badly buckled or cracked wheels. Bring the locking wheel nut key.

Brake pedal feels firm

It should not sink slowly to the floor. The car should stop in a straight line without pulling or grinding.

Parking brake holds the car on a slope

Lever handbrakes should not need to travel too far. Electronic parking brakes should engage with no warning message.

Brake fluid is between MIN and MAX

A low level can mean worn pads or a leak. Do not overfill.

Windscreen damage is within limits

Chips or cracks over 10mm in the 290mm-wide area centred on the steering wheel, or over 40mm elsewhere in the wiper area, can fail.

Wipers clear the screen

Blades should not be split, smear badly or skip. New blades are cheap and quick to fit.

Screenwash is topped up and sprays

The test fails washers that do not supply enough fluid to clear the screen.

Mirrors are present, secure and not cracked

Interior mirror and door mirrors should give a clear view behind.

Nothing blocks the driver's view

Remove sat-nav mounts, stickers or dangling items in the wiper area in front of the driver.

Every seatbelt works

Pull each one out fully: no fraying or cuts, it latches and releases, and it retracts. A sharp tug should lock it.

Seats are secure and backs lock upright

The driver's seat should adjust forwards and back and lock in place.

Number plates are clean, secure and legal

Readable, not cracked or faded, correct character font and spacing, and no tinted covers or rearranged letters.

VIN is visible and readable

Usually at the base of the windscreen or on a door pillar. Required on cars first used from 1 August 1980.

Doors open and close properly

Front doors must open from inside and outside, rear doors from outside, and all latch securely.

Bonnet and boot close securely

The bonnet catch should hold it firmly shut, and the boot or tailgate should latch.

No sharp edges or serious corrosion

Look for rust holes near suspension and seatbelt mounts, and damaged panels with sharp edges.

Horn works

One steady tone, loud enough to be heard.

Fuel cap fastens and seals

Bring the key if it locks. The tester needs to remove it.

Exhaust is secure, complete and not too loud

No heavy blowing, rattling or missing sections. Listen at the tail pipe with the engine running.

No fuel or fluid leaks

Check under the car after it has been parked overnight.

Engine warning light is off

An engine management light that stays on can point to an emissions fault.

No heavy smoke from the exhaust

Diesels: tell the tester at the start if you think the smoke test could harm the engine, and arrive with the engine fully warmed up.

Car is reasonably clean and empty

Clear the boot and footwells. A tester can refuse a car that is too dirty or loaded to inspect.

Oil and coolant are at the right level

Low oil can stop an emissions test going ahead.

You know the MOT due date

You can test up to a month (minus a day) early and keep the same renewal date.